Food Trends 2020: Return to Roots

Illustrations by JoEllen Martinson Davis

During the month of March, our lives radically shifted in response to the spread of Covid-19. Homebound and facing uncertainty, consumers became pragmatic in many ways, particularly as it relates to food. We have several food trends to share this year, but this first one highlights food’s essentialism.

First, a quick aside: ‘food trends’ are typically associated with new and unheard of food ingredients and products that excite us. It’s why we go to Expo West and the Fancy Food Show, listen to podcasts like Kitchen Street and The Splendid Table. This approach, though - of food-as-entertainment - morphed overnight into real concerns about feeding oneself with high unemployment numbers, bare grocery store shelves, and families to feed. The world wondered: How do I make bread? How to cook using three ingredients from my panty? How do I ration provisions to make my groceries last longer?

One of the trends that became apparent as we eased into the routine of lock-down was the making of a plan that looked similar to that of pioneers and survivalists: seeking flour, yeast, seeds, chicks, and easy recipes. The essentials.

First it was bread: Flour and yeast were gone from shelves, with yeast sales up 600% in March. Then it was seed suppliers running low and creating online purchasing restrictions in order to provide products to more people. And gardens – whether window sill, patio or in the yard – became as popular as houseplants. Re-growing bok choy and green scallions in water jars became a thing. And last, there was a chick shortage with those seeking a consistent food source or something to fill the time.

There was a sense in watching these behavior shifts and the soaring popularity of such specific items that reinforced we still collectively believe in one idea of essentialism. And they harken back to a simpler time when we were more self-sufficient. The Food Trend in Return To Your Roots: foraging, hunting, gardening, raising livestock, home cooking, bread making.